Levi’s Collections
Part 1 - Levis Vintage Clothing
Vintage and limited-edition jeans have become highly sought-after among denim collectors. Over the past decade, prices for rare pieces have surged, with many people hoping to cash in by reselling to a growing collector market.
Among all brands, Levi’s stands out — not only as the oldest denim company in the world, but as the one with the richest and most iconic history.
A pair of Levi’s Jeans from the 1880s sold at an auction in a small town in New Mexico for more than $87,000 in 2022.
The jeans – found in an abandoned mine by a “denim archaeologist” – were bought by 23-year-old Kyle Hautner and Zip Stevenson, a veteran of the vintage denim market.
“We didn’t have any plans to buy the jeans together until the auction started, which is kind of insane looking back on it,” Stevenson told CNN.
The jeans were sold for $87,400 – one of the highest prices ever paid for a pair of denims – courtesy of CNN
Re-issued vintage 501 models
Levis in Japan have been producing replicas of different 501 jeans models since 1987. The market for traditionally made and premium denim has always been greater in Japan, the collector prepared to pay high prices for pieces that are as close to the original design as possible.
With the increasing interest in collectables worldwide, Levis Vintage Clothing (LVC) was established in 1996 re-issuing limited editions of historically relevant 501’s.
Please note - Levis Vintage Clothing (LVC) exists to preserve and celebrate the most
historical significant eras of the
Levi’s 501 jean.
Each re-issue selected model is based on archival pairs held in Levi’s San Francisco vault, and chosen for their:
- Cultural relevance (1947 post war era, 1966 counterculture etc)
- Technical evolution (1890 first use of ”501” lot number, 1937 hidden rivets etc)
- Design Milestones (1873 patented rivets, 1955 wide leg Rock ’n’ Roll fit etc)
- Social Influence (1976 bicentennial model, 1984 Olympic model etc)
LVC aims to recreate these landmark versions as authentically as possible, using original Fabric weights, Construction methods,
Fits and silhouette and Manufacturing labels and branding from the time.
Clarification - Reproductions vs. Pure Replicas
While most LVC are highly accurate to the originals, some modern production runs especially in Japan, include minor deviations such as:
- Use of back pocket rivets (like the 1890) even though they weren't on the original
- Made in Japan or Turkey, even if the historic pair were U.S. made
- Occasionally produced with tweaked fits or finishes to meet modern expectations
This is often as a result of Material availability (the 2017 closure of Cone Mills White Oak), Modern durability standards (adding rivets for strength), or Regional market preferences (Japan’s demand for extremely high quality denim)
LVC 9Rivet XX
LVC 9Rivet Jeans - Levi’s 9Rivets
As part of its 150th anniversary in 2023, Levi’s released it’s 9Rivet XX Waist Overalls. While not strictly a 501 model, these overalls, originally produced pre-1875, are the blueprint for every pair of jeans that have come since.
They feature:
9 Rivets instead of 11 (2 more rivets were added to the watch pocket in later jeans)
Only one back pocket - faithful to the 1873 original
Exposed back cinch
Leather patch in centre of back waist band
No belt loops
9oz Cone Mills white selvedge denim
Suspender/braces buttons on waistband
Single-Needle construction
Button Fly
Made in USA
Limited to 800 pieces
LVC 1890 501XX
LVC 1890 501XX Jeans -
The 1890 501XX re-issue was due to the cultural relevance and technical evolution of the original product released in 1890. It honours the origins of modern denim and showcases early Levi’s construction details such as the single back pocket, the cinch and other unique designs. It not only cements the 501 as a garment but as a piece of American heritage.
The 1890 501 includes:
The first use of the ”501” Lot number
One back pocket (riveted in the modern version, not the original)
Exposed back cinch
12oz red-line selvedge denim from Cone Mills White Oak plant or 9oz Amoskeag denim depending on release date.
Suspender/braces buttons on waistband
Single-Needle construction
Button Fly
Made in Japan (the original made in the U.S)
Loose fit and higher rise
The famous leather Two Horse Patch
LVC 1901 501XX
LVC 1901 501XX Jeans -
The 1901 501XX was an historical milestone with an added back pocket. The jeans highlight a key transition point between the rugged 19th century work pants and the modern 20th century jean.
Two back pockets introduced (riveted in the modern version, not the original)
Exposed back cinch
Suspender/braces buttons on waistband
Single-Needle Arcuate stitching
Button Fly
Made in USA or Japan (early models made in the U.S, more recent models made in Japan with premium denim)
High rise and straight fit
Cone Mills White Oak or Japanese selvedge in later versions
The famous leather Two Horse Patch
LVC 1915 501XX
LVC 1915 501XX Jeans -
The 1915 501XX marked the beginning of Levi’s partnership with Cone Mills Denim, this remained their primary denim supplier for over a century until 2017. Recent re-issues use Japanese selvedge
The key elements of the jeans were basically the same as the 1901 model.
Two back pockets introduced (riveted in the modern version, not the original)
Exposed back cinch
Suspender/braces buttons on waistband
Single-Needle Arcuate stitching
Button Fly
Made in USA or Japan (early models made in the U.S, more recent models made in Japan with premium denim)
High rise and straight fit
Cone Mills White Oak or Japanese selvedge in later versions
The famous leather Two Horse Patch
LVC 1922 501XX
LVC 1922 501XX Jeans -
This model captures the unique moment where belt loops, suspender or braces buttons and cinch backs coexisted and it marked the first real move toward modern styling of the 501 while offering a rare blend of historic detail and modern wearable features.
Two exposed riveted back pockets
Exposed back cinch
Suspender/braces buttons and belt loops on waistband
Single-Needle Arcuate stitching
Button Fly
Made in USA or Japan (early models made in the U.S, more recent models made in Japan with premium denim)
High rise and straight fit
Cone Mills Red Line selvedge or Japanese selvedge in later versions
The famous leather Two Horse Patch
LVC 1930 501XX
LVC 1930XX 501 Jeans -
The 1930 501XX model reflects the rise from mining camps to mainstream western Americana with Levi’s growing in popularity among cowboys, ranchers and rodeo riders. The suspender or braces buttons were removed highlighting the adoption of belts at the time.
They still pre-date the movie-star denim boom remaining a pure workwear piece.
Two exposed riveted back pockets
Exposed back cinch
Suspender/braces buttons removed and only belt loops on waistband
Single-Needle Arcuate stitching
Button Fly
Made in USA or Japan (early models made in the U.S, more recent models made in Japan with premium denim)
High rise and straight fit
Cone Mills Red Line selvedge or Japanese selvedge in later versions
The famous leather Two Horse Patch
LVC 1931 ”Long Day” 501XX
LVC 1931 ”Long Day” 501XX Jeans -
There isn't any official indication that LVC produced a 1931 501XX reissue as part of their archival “year‑model” series.
Some modern denim lines —particularly outside LVC— have used the name “501‑1931” or even “Long Day” 501s, referencing early
work-era styling with selvedge fabric, square pockets, and slim straight fits.
For instance, a Japanese-market Levi’s 501‑1931 “Long Day” model exists in Mexico as a vintage-inspired piece using Cone Mills selvedge denim .
Nevertheless, there is no evidence that Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC) officially issued a 1931 501XX standard year‑model reissue. Their officially recognized reproductions align with major design transition points.
LVC 1933 501XX
LVC 1933 501XX Jeans -
1933 marked the introduction of hidden back pocket rivets, addressing customer complaints regarding scratching furniture and saddles from the exposed rivets.
Hidden rivets on back pockets
Exposed back cinch
Suspender/braces buttons removed and only belt loops on waistband
Single-Needle Arcuate stitching
Button Fly
Made in USA or Japan (early models made in the U.S, more recent models made in Japan with premium denim)
High rise and straight fit
13oz Cone Mills Red Line selvedge or Japanese selvedge in later versions
The famous leather Two Horse Patch
Still no ”Red Tab” and ”Guarantee Ticket”
LVC 1937 501XX
LVC 1937 501XX Jeans -
This 501XX model marks the debut of the iconic ”Red Tab” cementing Levi’s identity in a growing denim market. With the continuation of hidden back pocket rivets and now the removal of the cinch (on some models) there was a shift toward a neater more polished look appealing to both labourers and casual wearers.
Hidden rivets on back pockets - reinforced on the inside
Cinch removed (the removal of the cinch happened around 1937 but not instantly across all models. Some pairs from early 1937 still had cinches. LVC sometimes re-issues models based on specific archived examples, if their 1937 reference garment had a cinch, so will the re-issue. Japanese market examples often lean into collector appeal so they may retain the cinch for visual interest or historical nuance.
Belt loops on waistband
No or very faint Arcuate stitching on pockets
Button Fly
Made in USA or Japan (early models made in the U.S, more recent models made in Japan with premium denim)
High rise and straight fit
13oz Cone Mills Red Line selvedge or Japanese selvedge in later versions
The famous leather Two Horse Patch
”Red Tab” Introduction!
LVC 1944 501XX
LVC 1944 501XX Jeans -
The most minimalistic 501. The 1944 model captures a moment when American industry and fashion adapted to war, prioritising function and efficiency without losing identity. Wartime restrictions dictated a simpler design with limitations on metal, thread and fabric.
The re-issued jean a favourite amongst collectors as the model stands for patriotism, ingenuity and practicality.
Hidden rivets on back pockets - reinforced on the inside
No watch pocket rivets
Belt loops on waistband
No Arcuate stitching. The famous design was painted on instead!
Button Fly
Made in USA or Japan (early models made in the U.S, more recent models made in Japan with premium denim)
High rise and straight fit
13oz Cone Mills Red Line selvedge or Japanese selvedge in later versions
The famous leather Two Horse Patch
Red Tab with ”LEVI’S” on only one side
LVC 1947 501XX
LVC 1947 501XX Jeans -
The birth of the modern 501. It is viewed as the definitive, post war Levi’s jean, blending rugged durability with a clean, civilian friendly look. They represent the boom era after the war and jeans went from work wear to everyday fashion, adopted by returning G.I’s, labourers and eventually youth culture.
The 1947 is loved by purists and casual wearers alike for its balance of structure, simplicity and history.
The first truly modern looking 501
The return of the riveted watch pocket
Belt loops on waistband
Fully restored Arcuate stitching
Button Fly
Made in USA or Japan (early models made in the U.S, more recent models made in Japan with premium denim)
High rise and straight fit
13oz Cone Mills Red Line selvedge or Japanese selvedge in later versions
The famous leather Two Horse Patch
Red Tab with ”LEVI’S” still only on one side
LVC 1954 501Z XX
LVC 1954 501Z XX Jeans -
Levi’s wanted to break into the East Coast market where, at the time, jeans were not so common and zipper flies were preferred. The 501Z (Z for Zipper) helped Levi’s introduce jeans to non-western consumers including college students and casual wearers. The 501Z is a precursor to the later ”Student Fit” and ”505” models and bridges the gap between rugged workwear and mainstream fashion.
The first zip-fly on Levi’s jeans
A top waistband button
Belt loops on waistband
Arcuate stitching
13oz Cone Mills Red Line selvedge or Japanese selvedge in modern LVC
High rise and straight fit
Leather Two Horse Patch
Red Tab with ”LEVI’S” still only on one side
LVC 1955 501XX
LVC 1955 501XX Jeans - Cultural Icon of the 1950’s
Immortalised by Marlon Brando and James Dean, this model became the uniform of American rebellion. The 1955 501XX was the jean of the youth movement, worn cuffed with boots or Chucks and it was the last 501 to feature XX denim marking the end of the rugged, raw workwear lineage before the 501 became more commercialised.
Button Fly
Wide leg, anti-fit cut
Belt loops
Arcuate stitching
13oz Cone Mills Red Line selvedge or Japanese selvedge in later LVC versions
Leather Two Horse Patch
Red Tab with ”LEVI’S” still only on one side
Early LVC runs were U.S made, more recent and premium editions are Made in Japan
LVC 1966 501(xx)
LVC 1966 501xx
Full of subtle design which shaped the future of 501 they're less flashy than the 1955 with a shift from rugged workwear to mass market denim. A quietly important model.
Bar tacks instead of hidden back pocket rivets
Clean and slightly slimmer cut
Belt loops
Double needle Arcuate stitching
Cone Mills Red Line selvedge or Japanese selvedge in later LVC versions
Paper/cardboard style Two Horse Patch
Red Tab with ”LEVI’S” now on both sides
Early LVC runs were U.S made, more recent and premium editions are Made in Japan
The 1966 is the last 501 with selvedge denim before the shift to wider looms in the 1970’s. It marked the start of large scale industrial denim and the end of the ”Big E” in the ”LEVIS” on the red tag (From 1971).
The 1970’s also saw the addition of care tags in jeans for the first time.
This 501 model highlights the quiet revolution in design: less workwear, more lifestyle - setting the tone of how jeans would be worn into the ’70’s and beyond.
LVC 1976 501
LVC 1976 501
A symbol of American denim culture. These 501’s were released during the U.S Bicentennial and captures the spirit of the 1970’s when jeans were everywhere. on factory floors, rock stages and college campuses. Most LVC versions today are made in Japan with carefully replicated post-selvedge denim characteristics.
Bar tacks for pocket strengthening
Straight fit, medium rise
Belt loops
Clean and symmetrical double needle Arcuate stitching
Paper/cardboard style Two Horse Patch
Double sided print Red Tab but this era coincides with Levi’s Orange Tab line
Made in USA (Original), Japan or Turkey
Wider shuttleless looms - the selvedge edge has gone
LVC 1984 501
LVC 1984 501
Levi’s was the official outfitter for the 1984 L.A Olympics, this 501 model celebrates that role. It also sits on the edge of Levi’s pre-modern production - just before stonewashing, acid washing and heavy fashion treatments that would define late ’80’s and early 90’s denim. 501’s are no longer tied to labour or rebellion, they were part of everyday life worn by skaters, athletes and suburban teens alike. They were a lifestyle.
Some LVC re-issues include inner labels referencing the Olympics or special packaging
Trim, straight leg fit
Belt loops
Clean and symmetrical double needle Arcuate stitching
Paper/cardboard style Two Horse Patch
Red Tab
International factory codes present on inside care tag
Non selvedge
Bar tacks for pocket strengthening
LVC 1993 501
LVC 1993 501
The end of the classic 501 era. Worn by everyone from Kurt Cobain to college kids the 1993 501 captured the laid back, thrift-store, DIY vibe of the decade. Stonewashing was no longer a trend, it was the default finish for mass-produced denim. This was the last model before 501’s were modernised completely with stretch denim, new cuts and global standardisation. The ’93 is one of the most wearable LVC models - a familiar fit for many.
Pre washed stonewashed denim
Red Tab with lower case letters and ”registered” trademark symbol
Mid-rise, relaxed fit
Button fly
Paper/cardboard style Two Horse Patch - now smaller
Red Tab
Global production
Non selvedge
Bar tacks for pocket strengthening
What to collect?
Any Levis jeans that are Made in USA and selvedge denim are a worthy investment. The You can still find plenty of examples on auction sites or from vintage shops. 1980’s 501 models hold their price well but any original jeans from before 2000 are a good investment.
- Any jeans with a limited number 1/200 for example, the fewer made, the more collectable.
- If you're uncertain about the authenticity of a pair of jeans, ask the seller to authenticate the piece or contact a jeans specialist.
- You should always cross check any potential purchases with online photos or guides. This one for example at Heddels.com is a great place to start.
- You can upload photos of potential vintage pieces to an AI tool and get an unbiased opinion, but cross check the results.
There's plenty of info out there to read up on before you go jeans hunting, a quick guide you can refer to is a good idea.
Part 2 coming soon...
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